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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.